How to Size a Solar System

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To design a renewable energy system that has enough power for your application, review the below listed wattage estimates for commonly used electrical items to get a sense of what different electrical devices require to function. 

Note that the actual wattage required by your appliances may be different from the common estimates listed, so to be safe, use the exact wattage required by your electrical items to calculate the power your system will need. You can locate the watts each of your electrical devices require to function on the product’s nameplate or in its user manual.

TYPICAL POWER RANGES FOR ELECTRICAL DEVICES

THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN RUNNING WATTAGE AND STARTING WATTAGE

The above parenthetical statement “Will need start up surge of electricity to start” means that to determine the power that your generator must provide, you need to determine both the running wattage and the starting wattage of any appliances with a motor.

While the running wattage represents the power needed to keep an appliance on, the starting wattage accounts for the power needed to start any electric devices with a motor. Appliances like refrigerators, washing machines, clothes dryers, etc. have a motor that may require 2 to 6 times the listed wattage for a short period (seconds) when starting up.

Think about a refrigerator that will cycle on and off multiple times a day to keep the refrigerator at the ultimate temperature to preserve food. Each time the refrigerator comes on to regulate the temperature, it requires a surge of starting power. The more a refrigerator door is open and shut during a day, the more often the refrigerator motor will have to come on the regulate the temperature -- so it is important to figure in starting wattage.

A general rule of thumb to determine starting wattage is to multiply the running wattage by three: Running wattage x 3 = Starting wattage. After you have determined which of your appliances need starting watts, select the item which requires the highest additional starting watts.  When you calculate this device’s watt-hours, we will need this starting watt number.

The reason you usually would only need to add the highest starting watt requirement is, unlike running watts which are continuous watts needed to keep devices running, the starting watts will only be required for a few seconds when starting motor-driven appliances like a refrigerator. Because It is likely that only one appliance at a time will be cycling on or being turned on, electricians feel it is an accurate estimate to select the highest starting wattage required and use that number to cover all the appliances required starting power.

There is a “however,” and here it is, if you know you will be turning on certain equipment that has starting power requirements (like a circular saw or air compressor or a commercial blender) hundreds of time per day, which would make it more likely that multiple devices would be starting up at once, then add each of these high-use appliances’ starting wattage requirements and daily watt-hour requirements to ensure your generator can handle two or three such items coming on at the same time.

Note that devices like light bulbs don’t have a motor and therefore don’t need an extra boost of power when they start up. This means for things like a light bulb, toaster, radio, waffle iron, etc. that you do not have to calculate starting wattage, you only need running wattage. 

CONVERSION FORMULA: HOW TO DETERMINE WATTS IF POWER IS LISTED IN AMPS

If your device has its power requirements defined in Amps instead of Watts, you can convert to Watts using this formula: Volts x Amps = Watts. Most appliances in the United States use 120 volts, however, larger appliances (such as clothes dryers and electric cooktops) require 240 volts. So, when using the formula if the voltage is 120 then take: 120 volts X Amps = Watts, or, if the voltage is 240 then take 240 volts x Amps = Watts.

IT’S IMPORTANT TO KNOW THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN WATTS (W) AND WATT-HOURS (Wh)

Once you create the list of appliances your system will run, then calculate the amount of time each device will be used on an average day to determine the watt-hours of electricity that device will use per day.

Let’s do a quick review of some electrical terms. Watts refer to units of power an electrical device needs to function. One watt is equivalent to electricity flowing at a rate of one Joule per second. The wattage listed on items like hot plates, toasters, or space heaters may have low, medium, or high settings, the nameplate will list the appliance’s maximum watts.

While watts measure power needed for a device to function, the watt-hours measure energy consumed while the device is running. Watt-hours calculate the total energy consumed by an electrical device over a set period of time. For example, if you have an ice-crushing 1500-watt blender that requires 1500 watts of power to function, then it’s important to determine its energy consumption for the number of hours it will be in use each day. If you remember power is expressed in watts and energy consumption is expressed in watt-hours, you’ll be good.

FORMULA FOR CALCULATING WATT-HOURS

To calculate watt-hours, take the watt requirement of each individual device and determine how long you use that device each day, then multiply the two numbers. The formula is: 

Watts x Hours = Watt-hours of energy consumption per day. Let’s look at a few examples:

Coffee Maker

For a 1000-watt coffee maker that is used 8 hours a day to continuously make fresh pots of coffee (and keep it hot with its built-in hotplate) the equation would be: 1000 watts x 8 hours = 8,000 watt-hours of energy consumption per day.

Portable Fan

In the heat of summer, you might have a portable fan that uses 120 watts of power and runs for 8 hours per day. That would be 120W x 8 hours = 960 watt-hours (Wh) daily of energy consumption.

Space Heater

Conversely, during chilly fall or winter days, you may have a space heater that draws 1000 watts running for 8 hours each day. 1000 W x 8 hours = 8000 Wh of energy consumption on each chilly day.

Outdoor light

Say you have a 60-watt flood light outside for nighttime safety. If you have the light on from 6 PM to 6 AM each night, then using the formula 60 watts x 12 hours = 720 Watt-hours (720Wh) of daily energy consumption.

Neon Signs

Similarly, if you have a 610-watt florescent neon sign and you have that sign powered for 12 hours a day (6 AM to 6PM) the equation would be 610 watts x 12 hours = 7,320Wh of energy consumption per day. If you have a typical neon glass sign, it draws approximately 400 watts x 12 hours = 4800Wh of energy consumption. If you have the most efficient typical LED neon sign, it draws about 150 watts x 12 hours =1800Wh of energy consumption per day.

Blender

If you were powering a coffee cafe, you might power a blender (or two) for blended drinks. A blender might be used only for a fraction of an hour a day. Let’s estimate that it takes one minute of blending to make a blended coffee drink and you make an average of 30 such drinks each day. A 1500W commercial blender used for 30 minutes a day will consume 750 watt-hours. The formula would read: 1500W x (0.5 hours) = 750 Wh of energy consumption/day.

However, remember to take seasonal differences into account.  If it’s a tremendously hot summer, you might make 120 such drinks a day. Then the equation would be 1500 watts x 2 hours (or 120 minutes) = 3000Wh of energy consumption per day in this scenario to blend 120 coffee drinks for one minute each in a 1500W commercial blender.

Refrigerator

Although a refrigerator is technically on all the time, it is cycling on and off all day long as needed to regulate its internal temperature. On hotter days, with a lot of opening and closing of the door, it may need to run longer to keep the optimum temperature. However, for this exercise, let’s estimate that the average time a refrigerator runs will be one-third of the day so we would take the refrigerator’s maximum wattage of 800-watts and multiply that by 8 hours per day: 800 watts x 8 hours a day = 6400 WH of energy consumption per day. (Refrigerators vary greatly in size and efficiency, so make sure you check your own appliance’s wattage requirement.)

HOW MUCH POWER WILL MY RENEWABLE ENERGY SYSTEM REQUIRE TO GENERATE SURPLUS ENERGY TO STORE?

You need to size your renewable energy system to run all the electrical items used on an average day plus calculate in enough surplus energy generation to store energy for later use in your generator’s battery system. If you only consider your exact power use needed to run your items daily, then you are not considering the need to have extra energy stored to power the system when the sun has gone down or the wind has stopping blowing. It is better to oversize your system for your power needs then to come up short if you are planning to be off grid.

ALSO ENSURE YOUR COLLECTION SYSTEM (SOLAR PANELS AND WIND TURBINES) CAN PROVIDE THE RENEWABLE ENERGY “FUEL” THAT YOUR SYSTEM WILL NEED TO OPERATE.

When sizing your generator system, you will have to consider the power the generator’s battery storage system will need to provide as well as the power that the renewable-energy system will need to collect.  If you have the right-sized generator storage system but are not supplying it with enough solar fuel to keep up with your daily power demands, then it will appear that the system doesn’t work, when in reality you just need to add more solar or wind power collection capacity to “fuel” the system.

Think of it this way, you are planning a 500-mile trip, but you only put enough fuel in your vehicle to get 300 miles, when you go 300 miles the vehicle will stop -- not because the vehicle doesn’t work anymore, but because it did not have enough fuel to reach your destination.

Solar and wind power are the fuel in a renewable energy system. You must ensure your system has enough power and battery storage capacity to meet your power needs as well as having enough solar/wind fuel generating capacity to run all the appliances you want to run and still have excess energy left to store for use when the sun goes down.

It is critical that your system has enough renewable energy “fuel” (sun and wind energy) to generate surplus energy to store to allow your system to continue to work after the sun has set.

After the sun has set,  the system is working only on stored energy. Your goal is to have a perfectly balanced system with enough power and energy supply to run your equipment as well as enough surplus energy left over to store to keep your system running at night, (including starting up and running the next day) or on rainy days, or during shorter winter days where less solar energy can be collected. Therefore, remember to calculate enough solar and/or wind power “fuel” to feed your system. Just as you could not put 5 gallons of fuel into a vehicle to take a trip that requires 10 gallons, you cannot put only half the solar/wind energy collection capacity into your system and expect it to meet your home energy demands.

STEPS FOR CALCULATING THE SIZE OF YOUR RENEWABLE ENERGY GENERATOR SYSTEM

• CREATE YOUR LIST OF ITEMS TO BE POWERED WITH THEIR REQUIRED WATTAGE 
  
  Make a list of the electrical items you want to power and determine the running wattage requirement of each device.
  
  
• CALCLATE ITEMS WITH MOTORS THAT HAVE START UP SURGE REQUIREMENTS 
  
  For appliances with electric motors, determine the starting wattage using the standard multiplier of three times the running wattage.  Using this formula Running wattage x 3 = Starting wattage would mean a 600-watt motor will require 1,800 watts to start. As described above, select the appliance with the highest starting wattage requirement and use that number, however, with the caveat that if you know your application will use multiple appliances with starting watt requirements (such as blenders or circular saws) that will be turned on and off all day, then also add in the starting wattage for each of these high-use  items when calculating their individual watt-hours. 
  
  CALCULATE THE HOURS EACH DEVICE IS USED PER DAY (WATT HOURS) 
  Calculate the amount of time each device will be used on an average day and then multiply the hours by the devices’ watts and that will give you watt-hours for each device. Again, the formula is: Watts x Hours = Watt-hours of energy consumption per day. Next: 
  
  1. Add the watt-hours required by your devices together, remembering to add the starting wattage requirements when figuring the watt-hours for high-use items with motors. 
  2. By totaling the watt-hours each device will use on an average day you determined your total electrical load. 
  3. Most electricians will then add an extra 20-25% safety buffer to total electrical load, however if you want a system that is off grid ensure that your system has enough energy supply and enough battery storage to keep you powered for two or three days of stormy overcast weather. (Better to have extra watt-hour power than to have a generator stop because of overload.)
  
  
• ENSURE YOU SYSTEM HAS ENOUGH ENERGY-GENERATING (SUPPLY) CAPACITY
  
  Once you have the total electrical load, it is important to ensure that your system’s collection capacity is large enough to supply the renewable energy fuel to power your system.
  
  Your renewable energy fuel supply comes from your solar panels and/or you wind turbines. You will need to have enough solar and wind generating power to meet the energy demands you are asking the system to provide plus surplus to store “for a rainy day.” The system must be balanced with enough power, battery storage capacity and energy supply generation, so your system’s reserves will not get drained. Without enough renewable energy fuel, the system cannot meet your energy demands.
  
  Remember, if you will be using your system after the sun goes down or before it comes up, you must ensure you have adequate power reserves to do this. To be off grid, it’s important you design a system with sufficient energy-generating capacity and battery-storage capacity to allow your system to accomplish this without draining your power reserves.
  
  
• ENSURE THE SYSTEM HAS ENOUGH BATTERY CAPACITY TO STORE SURPLUS ENERGY TO USE WHEN THE SUN IS NOT SHINING OR THE WIND IS NOT BLOWING 
  
  So, if you plan to run your system for a couple of hours before the sun comes up and more hours after the sun has gone down, then you need to make sure your renewable energy system is correctly sized to take this need into account.
  
  You want your system to perform all the work it did during the daylight hours, but now it must do this only with stored energy. Your solar panels will not be able to generate more power until the sun comes up again, so you need to design your system, so it has enough stored energy to supply your after-dark electricity needs each day and still not drain the system’s stored energy. If the system is designed correctly, there should always be enough energy left in reserve to power up your system the next day and have a stored surplus energy to run your home during particularly stormy weather periods where solar panel energy collection capacity is greatly reduced.

FOLLOWING MORE FACTS TO CONSIDER WHEN DESIGNING AN OFF GRID SOLAR SYSTEM:

TEMPERATURE COEFFICIENT -- PANEL PLACEMENT IS IMPORTANT TO REDUCE HEAT BUILDUP IN PANEL ARRAY

It is important to understand the temperature coefficient when considering solar panel performance. To indicate how well a solar panel will perform in hot temperatures the manufacturers use this measurement called the temperature coefficient which is particularly important if your live in an area that experiences heatwaves and excessively high-heat conditions.

It is important to understand the temperature coefficient when considering solar panel performance. To indicate how well a solar panel will perform in hot temperatures the manufacturers use this measurement called the temperature coefficient which is particularly important if your live in an area that experiences heatwaves and excessively high-heat conditions. 

Solar panels are tested at an industry standard of 77 degrees Fahrenheit (25 degrees Celsius). Above this 77*F standard, solar panels often begin to generate less power.

In short, temperature affects solar panel voltage and current. Basically, as the temperature increases, it decreases the power output the solar panels can produce

To calculate the temperature coefficient the Celsius scale is used. The 77*F standard equates to 25* Celsius, so starting with a panel’s power output at this standard temperature the performance is observed as the temperature rises and the percentage of power loss is recorded. The formula to arrive at the energy coefficient takes (the industry standard of 25*C) which is divided by (the number of degrees above 25*C) to arrive at the energy coefficient. 

So, for instance, 28*C is 3 degrees Celsius higher than the 25*C standard, if there is a power loss of 1.08 % at 28*C, then take (the power loss of 1.08%) and divide it by (3 the degrees above 25*C) to get the temperature coefficient or -0.36%*C Pmax. Pmax is the maximum rated power out put of a solar panel, so your solar panel will have lost 0.36% of its maximum rated power output. If you had a 410W solar panel it would mean that due to high heat conditions that panel can now, under those circumstances, deliver 408.5 watts of power, instead of it maximum 410 watts.

Where it may be intuitive to think a more southern, sunny climate like Texas would be better for solar collection than a more northerly area like Washington state, this demonstrates that assumption can be wrong at certain times of the year where Texas temperatures may be excessively high. While solar panels can withstand extreme temperatures of up to 149*F, but they perform best at the 77*F (25*C0 standard and lose a small percentage of power output as temperatures rise. 

A temperature coefficient basically describes the relative change of a physical property that is associated with a given change in temperature. What this means in applicable terms is, while a state like Texas has numerous sunny days, which is a very good thing for solar energy collection, it also can have some associated extremely hot days which is not as good for solar energy collection. Here the laws of thermodynamics come into play because solar panels generate energy creating a flow of electrons and the more electrons are heated, the more they move. This increased movement causes the electrons to bounce around which reduces efficiency and reduces the voltage that can be produced. 

The takeaway here is that although solar panel can function up to 149 degrees Fahrenheit, they perform best in the more moderate temperature range because extremely high temperatures can affect the panels efficiency. Solar panels, like any electronic equipment, will lose efficiency the hotter it gets, but usually a panel will experience only a 0.3 to 0.5% energy decrease for every degree above 25*C. 

Additionally, there are steps you can take to help the panels stay cooler. If your panels are going to be permanently mounted on a roof, give adequate air space between the roof and the panels. This allowance for cooling air circulation between the roof and the panels which can keep your solar panels from becoming too hot and reducing their efficiency.

Also, the best choice for high temperature areas are Monocrystalline solar panels because they have superior efficacy and temperature coefficient. If you are in a high temperature area that is routinely prone to heat waves make sure to check the temperature coefficient when comparing solar panel options.

KEEP YOUR GENERATOR’S INVERTER/BATTERY STORAGE SYSTEM IN A COOL SPOT

Additionally, store your generator in a cool, well-ventilated, and protected spot because when it’s hot and the generator’s inverter is used at its maximum capacity for extended periods the result can be that the system will store less power the more you use it. This happens because the higher the temperature of electrical wire, the higher the resistance is for current flow. 

Because high internal temperature in electronics can decrease the energy that the system can produce -- it means the higher the temperature, the lower the voltage produced. Inverters work best at moderate temperatures. Derating happens when an inverter must work too hard to cool itself down, basically using more power than necessary. This derating effect can happen when there are extreme heat-wave days, and the inverter is being used continuously over an extended period. 

There are measures to keep your inverter and solar generator battery system in optimal performance shape like storing your generator in a shady cool area that has sufficient airflow to ensure the equipment’s internal temperature does not rise too far above room temperature -- keeping your inverter’s temperature below 120 degrees Fahrenheit is important. Ensure that you never block your generator’s vents – air flow is crucial to reduce internal heat buildup.

CONVERTING DC TO AC CAUSES A SMALL ENERGY LOSS

When solar panel systems collect solar energy to create electricity, the type of power created is direct current (DC). This direct current is what is stored in the generator system’s batteries. US homes, however, are designed to use alternating current (AC). When the electricity generated is converted from direct current to alternating current, there is a 5 to 15% energy loss. 

This happens because the system’s inverter works by switching the direct current input on and off, creating rapid pulses that alternates between positive and negative -- a pure sinusoidal wave, the most common type of alternating current, is then formed by filtering and smoothing these rapid pulses to the pure, clean sinusoidal wave. 

Because there is this 5 to 15% loss of the power from what the solar panels collected when the inverter converts the DC electricity to AC for use in homes, the result is there is a little less power available for use. (Users can also lose some power due to resistance if their home’s wiring is not correctly sized for the electrical load.) The takeaway here is, that when you’re designing your solar system, remember to account for the possible ways there can be system energy loss when making your overall power requirement calculations and make allowances for these possible small power losses.

CONVERSION FORMULAS FOR CONVERTING DC TO AC

The inverter efficiency rating usually can be found in your user manual, but most inverter’s have a 90% efficiency rating. The conversion formula for converting DC to AC depends on whether you know the Amps, or the Wattage provided by your solar system.

AC Watts = (DC Watts * inverter efficiency rate) / 100

AC Amps = (DC Amps * inverter efficiency rate) / 100

As an example, let’s say you have four 410W solar panels that have been tilted at the ultimate position south toward the sun to generate the most electricity (solar panels need to be angled correctly to achieve their highest performance rating). So, to find the AC wattage available multiply (4 x 410W) by the (90% inverter efficiency rate) making your equation: AC Watts = (1640 W x 90) / 100.  (Note that if your inverter has a different efficiency rating use that number.)

This means you would have 1476 AC Watt of usable electricity supply to use for appliances if your four 410 W panels were optimally placed -- tilted south toward the sun without shade or dirt interfering with their ability to collect solar energy as well as being optimally placed on your roof to allow for cooling air flow around the panels to help prevent overheating. (We will talk more about panel cleaning and optimal panel tilt below.)

CLEAN AND MAINTAIN YOUR SOLAR PANELS FOR OPTIMAL PERFORMANCE

Solar panels can still work on cloudy and even rainy days; however, they will not be working at their peak performance levels. Panel efficiency will depend on the amount of cloud coverage. Consider that anything that blocks your solar panels from absorbing sunlight can reduce the panels’ power production. Things like snow, rain, fog, clouds, dust, dirt, bird droppings, leaves, twigs, or shade from trees or buildings can all adversely affect the panel’s photovoltaic (PV) cell’s ability to absorb sunlight causing the panels to underperform.

Just like looking through a dirty windshield can affect clear driving visibility, to get the most for your solar panel collection system you need to keep your panels clean so they can function at their highest capacity. Because solar panels will become dirty over time, to get the best performance users should make sure they keep their panels clean. In many areas, abundant natural rainfall keeps the panels clean, however, if you are in a particularly arid area or are surrounded by dusty farmland then more cleaning maintenance may be needed. Most experts feel that cleaning the panels an average of every six months will work -- but you want to adjust your maintenance for your particular situation.

If your panels are quite dirty, mix a little vinegar with water to clean the panels, then rinse them with clean water, and dry them with a soft, dry cloth to avoid water spotting. (Like washing a car, it is probably best not to do this in the midday heat which can promote water spotting.) Additionally, do not use ammonia-based glass cleaners or harsh commercial soaps because they can leave a film and/or soapy build up which can affect the solar panels’ ability to collect solar energy.

FOR BEST SOLAR COLLECTION OPTIMIZE YOUR SOLAR PANELS’ TILT ANGLE

Solar panels receive their greatest amount of energy and produce their maximum efficiency when oriented or tilted directly toward the sun. South-facing solar arrays can produce the most power. If solar panels are mounted flat on a flat roof, then the panels cannot achieve their ultimate performance because when the sunlight strikes flat panels, most of it is deflected because the sunlight is not penetrating the panels perpendicularly. When you tilt or pitch the solar panels toward the sun, then they perform better because it ensures maximum solar energy absorption. Panels on a flat roof are usually tilted up at a 10 to 40 degree angle toward the sun for the best sun collection for the geographical area which they are located.

FOR BEST SOLAR PANEL TILT, KNOW YOUR AREA’S SEASONAL CHANGES

The sun’s position in the sky changes seasonally as well as daily. As the Earth rotates around the sun over a span of one year, the sun is in different positions during different seasons, in much the same way as the sun is in different positions during each day. 

There are times of the day in the solar industry that are known as “peak sun” hours which are usually around 10 AM to 4PM. These tend to be the prime or optimum hours for the solar energy collection and therefore electricity generation. When planning your solar energy system make sure your panels will receive ample peak sun hours.

The main tilt-angle positions for seasonal changes are the mean, the winter, or the summer position. Basically, if it is your goal to generate the maximum amount of solar energy year-round, you should use the mean position. This angle receives sunlight throughout the year and is positioned at 10 degrees from horizontal and  facing due South. However, if the goal is to increase solar generation capacity during winter, then opt for the winter tilt as it accounts for the sun’s lower position in the sky during that season. This winter position angle-tilt is 40 degrees from horizontal and facing due South. (Since the summer days are longer with better solar collection capability,  the summer position is likely the least used position.) As a basic rule of thumb, the ideal degree of tilt of should be approximately equal to the latitude of your geographical location facing south.

In the continental US, panels are generally tilted toward the south for best collection. Therefore, if your home has a sloped roof, the panels should be installed on the most south-most facing side of the roof for best performance. Of course, always avoid areas that are shaded or could collect leaf debris for best solar collection.

NATURE’S GENERATOR HAS MANY DIFFERENT RENEWABLE ENERGY SYSTEMS TO MEET DIFFERENT NEEDS.

Nature’s generator has systems to meet many different needs. All of Nature’s Generator renewable energy systems can be recharged by our state-of-the-art solar panels or wind turbines or both simultaneously. Harnessing the free abundant energy of the sun and wind has never been so easy.

Additionally, because Nature’s Generator’s systems are expandable, it is not difficult to achieve a balance system for your home’s renewable energy needs. Taking a little time up front to calculate what you want your system to power will be worthwhile and will enable you to keep your home’s power well-supplied and running smoothly.

PORTABLE SYSTEMS

Power on the go. The Nature’s Generator Lithium 1800 weighing in at only 40 lbs. is the perfect portable system to power a on-the-go lifestyle. Whether you are going camping, or tailgating, or need electricity for a farmer’s market booth, or need to power tools on a jobsite where there’s no electricity supply -- this little work horse is compact and portable. Additionally, it can serve as backup power in your home in the case of emergencies.

BACKUP SYSTEMS

The SLA Standard 1800-watt or Elite 3600-watt systems are also portable and can provide power on the go. These systems are infinitely expandable and can provide well-scaled backup power for households in areas hit by frequent power outages. They are a highly affordable solution for preparing your home for the inevitable outage or disaster and can be expanded as power needs grow.

WHOLE HOME SYSTEM

The Powerhouse does just what it says with 7200-watt maximum output with an impressive 4800Wh of power, it is ready to power a house. The Powerhouse systems can be expanded if your household requires more power. Individual Power Pods can be added to expand the Powerhouse system. One Power Pod will double the watt-hour capacity to 9600Wh, two Power Pods will increase the watt-hours to 14,400Wh and so on. But remember if you increase your watt-hour storage capacity, also ensure your power generation capacity (solar panels and wind turbines) are sufficient to supply and recharge your generator’s battery system for seamless power production.

The Powerhouse systems can give you a tremendous bang for your electricity dollar, harnessing the free abundant energy of the sun and wind is a win for your wallet and a win for the environment. The Powerhouse systems come with SLA (sealed lead acid) or LiFePO4 (lithium iron phosphate) battery technology or both (in the hybrid system which delivers the best of each technology).

SOLAR PANELS

Nature’s Generator is proud of our state-of-the-art monocrystalline solar panels, available for the portable systems in 100W portable panels and in the home-based systems in 410W home solar panels. They have a high efficiency rating, impressive power output, and the capacity to generate energy even in lower-light conditions before and after the more prime peak solar collecting hours of 10 AM to 4PM.

WIND TURBINES

Nature’s Generator sleek functional wind turbine can allow continued recharging of your clean renewable energy system even after the sun has gone down. The wind turbines are not quite as fast for recharging the renewable energy generator systems as are the solar panels, however, Nature’s Generator was the first renewable energy solar power company to offer simultaneous solar panel and wind turbine recharging – truly a wind-win. 

Please visit our website to see each of the different affordable Nature’s Generator Products available and select the one best for your application and your power needs.

* We want to give credit where credit is due. Professional writer, Diane Underhill, contributed research and content to this blog titled: How to Size a Solar System Thank you, Diane, for your contributions!